I've always been a fan of cream puffs. I still am. The more whipped cream, the better. Éclairs on the other hand, I never found them appealing, until I saw Thomas Keller's Dulce de Leche Éclair. It's so pretty that it made me want to make some. The traditional éclair is filled with pastry cream and dipped in a shiny chocolate glaze but Thomas Keller suggested chocolate pastry cream. Its just an explosion of chocolatey-ness in your mouth.
Makes 12 éclairs.
You'll need a pastry bag with an Ateco #867 French star tip, a spray bottle, a 1/4-inch plain tip, a pastry bag with a 1/2-inch plain tip, and a candy thermometer.
for the Pâte à Choux for Eclairs: makes 785 grams/28 ounces.
175 grams (1 ¼cup) all-purpose flour
for the Pâte à Choux for Eclairs: makes 785 grams/28 ounces.
175 grams (1 ¼cup) all-purpose flour
33 grams (2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons) granulated sugar
240 grams (1 cup) water
120 grams (4.2 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2.5 grams (3/4 + 1/8 teaspoon) kosher salt
250 grams (1 cup) eggs
Immediately transfer the dough to the mixer bowl and mix on low for about 30 seconds to release some of the moisture. Slowly begin adding the eggs, about 50 grams or 3 tablespoons at a time, beating until each addition is completely absorbed before adding the next one. Continue adding the eggs, reserving 25 grams or 1/2 tablespoon, until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl when pulled with the paddle but then grabs back on again.
Increase the speed to medium and mix for 15 seconds to make sure all of the eggs are incorporated. Stop the mixer. When the paddle is lifted, the dough should form a bird’s beak-it should hold its shape and turn down itself but not break off. If the dough is too stiff, add the reserved egg.
Transfer the dough to a pastry bag and refrigerate until cold before using.
for the Chocolate Pastry Cream: makes 775 grams/3 1/2 cups
167 grams (5.8 ounces) 70% chocolate, coarsely chopped, preferably Valrhona Guanaja
25 grams (0.8 ounce) 100% unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped, preferably Valrhona Pure Pâte de Cacao
25 grams (2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons) all-purpose flour or custard powder
25 grams (1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon) unsweetened alkalized cocoa powder
60 grams (1/4 cup) egg yolks (approximately 3 egg yolks)
87 grams (1/4 cup + 3 tablespoons) granulated sugar
500 grams (2 cups) whole milk
52 grams (1.8 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 inch pieces, at room temperature
(Note: use either chocolate pastry cream of pastry cream! You will not be needing both!)
Melt the two chocolates together. In a small bowl, combine the custard powder or all-purpose flour and the cocoa powder. Set up an ice bath. Place a medium bowl in the ice water and set a fine-mesh strainer over the bowl.
Put the yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on medium-low speed for about 30 seconds. Reduce the speed to low and slowly pour in the sugar, then whisk on medium speed until lighter in color, about 1 1/2 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then whisk on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until the mixture is pale yellow and thick. When the whisk is lighted, the mixture should form a ribbon and hold it for about 5 seconds.
Reduce the speed to low, add the custard powder of flour mixture, and mix for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. With the mixer running on low speed, slowly pour in the milk. Scrape the bowl again and mix for another minute, or until combined.
Pour the mixture into a large saucepan, set over medium heat, and stir gently until it begins to thicken. Switch to a whisk and whisk as the cream comes to a simmer, rotating the whisk around the bottom to keep the cream from scorching. Once you see bubbles breaking the surface, cook for about 5 minutes longer, whisking constantly, until the pastry cream has thickened.
Pour the pastry cream through the strainer, pressing gently to push the thickened cream through. Whisk for about 1 minute to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter in 2 additions. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. Add the chocolate in 2 additions, whisking until incorporated.
Pour into a covered container and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 1 hours. The cream can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.
When ready to use the cream, transfer to a bowl and stir gently until it has a creamy consistency.
for the Pastry Cream, if you don't want Chocolate Pastry Cream: makes 810 grams/3 2/3 cups
160 grams (1/2 cup + 2 1/2 tablespoons) egg yolks (approximately 8 egg yolks)
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
133 grams (1/2 cup + 2 1/2 tablespoons) granulated sugar
100 grams (1/2 cup + 3 12 tablespoons) custard powder or all-purpose flour
666 grams (2 1/2 cups + 2 1/2 tablespoons) whole milk
33 grams (1.2 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, at room temperature
Set up an ice bath. Place a medium bowl in the ice water and set a fine-mesh strainer over the bowl.
Put the yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the yolks, and mix on medium-low speed for about 30 seconds. Reduce the speed to low and slowly pour in the sugar, then whisk on medium speed until lighter in color, about 1 1/2 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then whisk on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until the mixture is pale yellow and thick. When the whisk is lifted, the mixture should form a ribbon and hold it for at least 5 seconds.
Reduce the speed to low, add the custard powder of flour, and mix for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. With the mixer running on the lowest speed, slowly pour in the milk. Scrape the bowl again and mix on low speed for another minute, or until combined.
Pour the mixture into a large saucepan, set over medium heat, and stir gently until it begins to thicken. Switch to a whisk and whisk as the cream comes to a simmer, rotating the whisk around the bottom to keep the cream from scorching. Once you see bubbles breaking the surface, cook for about 5 minutes longer, whisking constantly, until the pastry cream has thickened.
Pour the pastry cream through the strainer, pressing gently on it to push the thickened cream through. Whisk for about 1 minute to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter, in 2 additions.
Pour into a covered container and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. The cream can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.
When ready to use the cream, transfer to a bowl and stir gently until it has a creamy consistency.
TO FILL THE ECLAIRS: With the 1/4 inch plain tip, poke 2 holes, 1 1/2 inches in from each end, into the bottom of each éclair. Fill the pastry bag with the (chocolate) pastry cream. Place the tip of the pastry bag into one hole and apply gentle pressure to begin filling the éclair with pastry cream. (You may begin to see the pastry cream through the second hole; this is okay.) Pipe cream as needed into the second hold until the éclair feels heavy; use about 60 grams/roughly 1/4 cup cream for each éclair. Repeat with the remaining éclairs and pastry cream.
for the Chocolate Glaze: makes 460 grams/1 3/4 cups
110 grams (3.8 ounces) 70% chocolate, coarsely chopped, preferably Valrhona Guanaja
10 grams (0.4 ounce) 100% unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped, preferably Valrhona Pure Pâte de Cacao
300 grams (1 cup) neutral glaze, preferably Caullet
112 grams (1/4 cup + 3 1/2 tablespoons) heavy cream
Combine the flour and sugar in a small bowl. Set up a stand mixer with the paddle attachment.
Combine the water, butter, and salt in a medium saucepan, place over medium heat, and using a wooden spoon, stir as the butter melts. (Staring at too high a temperature will evaporate some of the water before the butter has melted.) Once the butter has melted, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer, then remove the pan from the heat and, stir in all of the flour. Continue to stir for about 2 minutes, or until the mixture has a paste-like consistency, then place over med heat and stir rapidly for 1 to 2 mins, until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and the bottom of the pan is clean; the dough should be glossy and smooth, but not dry.
Immediately transfer the dough to the mixer bowl and mix on low for about 30 seconds to release some of the moisture. Slowly begin adding the eggs, about 50 grams or 3 tablespoons at a time, beating until each addition is completely absorbed before adding the next one. Continue adding the eggs, reserving 25 grams or 1/2 tablespoon, until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl when pulled with the paddle but then grabs back on again.
Increase the speed to medium and mix for 15 seconds to make sure all of the eggs are incorporated. Stop the mixer. When the paddle is lifted, the dough should form a bird’s beak-it should hold its shape and turn down itself but not break off. If the dough is too stiff, add the reserved egg.
Transfer the dough to a pastry bag and refrigerate until cold before using.
NOTE ON FREEZING: Pâte à choux for éclairs is not ideal for freezing before baking because the lines created by using the French star tip can be compromised when you wrap or cover the dough in order to freeze it.
Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Fill a small bowl and the spray bottle with water.
TO MAKE A TEMPLATE: The guidelines for the éclairs should be visible through the lighter portion of a Silpat. Using a fine-tip marker, draw six 6-inch lines 2 inches apart on a large piece of parchment paper. Place the parchment on a sheet pan and position the Silpat over it. Or, if you don't have a Silpat, flip the parchment upside down so the pencil marks are facing the pan.
TO PIPE AND BAKE THE ECLAIRS: Starting at the side of the Silpat farthest from you, hold the tip of the pastry bag 3/4 inch above the Silpat and apply gentle, steady pressure as you pipe the first éclair. When the éclair is about 6 inches long, begin to lessen the pressure, and then stop it as you bring the dough back over itself, leaving a 1/2 inch curl at the end of the éclair. Pipe 5 more éclairs on the Silpat. Carefully slide out the template and repeat with a second sheet pan and Silpat. Wet your finger and press down the tip of each éclair, then spray them lightly with water. Place the sheet pans in the oven and immediately lower the oven temperature to 350°F. Bake for about 40 minutes, until the éclairs are beginning to brown; rotate the pans halfway through (unless your using a convection oven). Lower the temperature to 325°F and bake for an additional 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Lower the temperature to 300°F and bake for 10 minutes longer, or until the puffs are light and feel hollow. If you break one open, the center should be completely cooked. Set on a cooling rack and cool completely before filling or freezing.
for the Chocolate Pastry Cream: makes 775 grams/3 1/2 cups
167 grams (5.8 ounces) 70% chocolate, coarsely chopped, preferably Valrhona Guanaja
25 grams (0.8 ounce) 100% unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped, preferably Valrhona Pure Pâte de Cacao
25 grams (2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons) all-purpose flour or custard powder
25 grams (1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon) unsweetened alkalized cocoa powder
60 grams (1/4 cup) egg yolks (approximately 3 egg yolks)
87 grams (1/4 cup + 3 tablespoons) granulated sugar
500 grams (2 cups) whole milk
52 grams (1.8 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 inch pieces, at room temperature
(Note: use either chocolate pastry cream of pastry cream! You will not be needing both!)
Melt the two chocolates together. In a small bowl, combine the custard powder or all-purpose flour and the cocoa powder. Set up an ice bath. Place a medium bowl in the ice water and set a fine-mesh strainer over the bowl.
Put the yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on medium-low speed for about 30 seconds. Reduce the speed to low and slowly pour in the sugar, then whisk on medium speed until lighter in color, about 1 1/2 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then whisk on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until the mixture is pale yellow and thick. When the whisk is lighted, the mixture should form a ribbon and hold it for about 5 seconds.
Reduce the speed to low, add the custard powder of flour mixture, and mix for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. With the mixer running on low speed, slowly pour in the milk. Scrape the bowl again and mix for another minute, or until combined.
Pour the mixture into a large saucepan, set over medium heat, and stir gently until it begins to thicken. Switch to a whisk and whisk as the cream comes to a simmer, rotating the whisk around the bottom to keep the cream from scorching. Once you see bubbles breaking the surface, cook for about 5 minutes longer, whisking constantly, until the pastry cream has thickened.
Pour the pastry cream through the strainer, pressing gently to push the thickened cream through. Whisk for about 1 minute to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter in 2 additions. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. Add the chocolate in 2 additions, whisking until incorporated.
Pour into a covered container and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 1 hours. The cream can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.
When ready to use the cream, transfer to a bowl and stir gently until it has a creamy consistency.
for the Pastry Cream, if you don't want Chocolate Pastry Cream: makes 810 grams/3 2/3 cups
160 grams (1/2 cup + 2 1/2 tablespoons) egg yolks (approximately 8 egg yolks)
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
133 grams (1/2 cup + 2 1/2 tablespoons) granulated sugar
100 grams (1/2 cup + 3 12 tablespoons) custard powder or all-purpose flour
666 grams (2 1/2 cups + 2 1/2 tablespoons) whole milk
33 grams (1.2 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, at room temperature
Set up an ice bath. Place a medium bowl in the ice water and set a fine-mesh strainer over the bowl.
Put the yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the yolks, and mix on medium-low speed for about 30 seconds. Reduce the speed to low and slowly pour in the sugar, then whisk on medium speed until lighter in color, about 1 1/2 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then whisk on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until the mixture is pale yellow and thick. When the whisk is lifted, the mixture should form a ribbon and hold it for at least 5 seconds.
Reduce the speed to low, add the custard powder of flour, and mix for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. With the mixer running on the lowest speed, slowly pour in the milk. Scrape the bowl again and mix on low speed for another minute, or until combined.
Pour the mixture into a large saucepan, set over medium heat, and stir gently until it begins to thicken. Switch to a whisk and whisk as the cream comes to a simmer, rotating the whisk around the bottom to keep the cream from scorching. Once you see bubbles breaking the surface, cook for about 5 minutes longer, whisking constantly, until the pastry cream has thickened.
Pour the pastry cream through the strainer, pressing gently on it to push the thickened cream through. Whisk for about 1 minute to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter, in 2 additions.
Pour into a covered container and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. The cream can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.
When ready to use the cream, transfer to a bowl and stir gently until it has a creamy consistency.
TO FILL THE ECLAIRS: With the 1/4 inch plain tip, poke 2 holes, 1 1/2 inches in from each end, into the bottom of each éclair. Fill the pastry bag with the (chocolate) pastry cream. Place the tip of the pastry bag into one hole and apply gentle pressure to begin filling the éclair with pastry cream. (You may begin to see the pastry cream through the second hole; this is okay.) Pipe cream as needed into the second hold until the éclair feels heavy; use about 60 grams/roughly 1/4 cup cream for each éclair. Repeat with the remaining éclairs and pastry cream.
for the Chocolate Glaze: makes 460 grams/1 3/4 cups
110 grams (3.8 ounces) 70% chocolate, coarsely chopped, preferably Valrhona Guanaja
10 grams (0.4 ounce) 100% unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped, preferably Valrhona Pure Pâte de Cacao
300 grams (1 cup) neutral glaze, preferably Caullet
112 grams (1/4 cup + 3 1/2 tablespoons) heavy cream
Melt the chocolates together.
Warm the neutral glaze in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring as it melts, then simmer for about 4 minutes, until it reaches 140 degrees F (60 degrees C).
Meanwhile, warm the cream in another small saucepan.
Slowly pour the cream over the chocolate, stirring with a spatula (a whisk would aerate the mixture and make unwanted bubbles) until the mixture is smooth.
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a spouted measuring cup and strain the neutral glaze, then slowly stir the glaze into the chocolate mixture.
Press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour, before using. The glaze should be fluid but not warm when used.
The glaze can be transferred to a covered container and refrigerated for up to 1 week. To use, heat the glaze in the top of a double boiler or in a medium bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring until melted and smooth but not hot.
TO GLAZE THE ECLAIRS: Pour the glaze into a deep bowl that is about 7 inches wide, just slightly larger than an éclair. Hold an éclair parallel to the surface of the glaze and dip it into the glaze to coat the top; pull it out of the glaze, still parallel to it, and turn the éclair upward, letting the excess run off, then rotate slightly to one side to stop the glaze from dripping. Set on a serving platter and repeat with the remaining éclairs.
The éclairs are best eaten as soon as they are completed, but they can be refrigerated for up to 1 hour.
Bon appétit!
Warm the neutral glaze in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring as it melts, then simmer for about 4 minutes, until it reaches 140 degrees F (60 degrees C).
Meanwhile, warm the cream in another small saucepan.
Slowly pour the cream over the chocolate, stirring with a spatula (a whisk would aerate the mixture and make unwanted bubbles) until the mixture is smooth.
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a spouted measuring cup and strain the neutral glaze, then slowly stir the glaze into the chocolate mixture.
Press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour, before using. The glaze should be fluid but not warm when used.
The glaze can be transferred to a covered container and refrigerated for up to 1 week. To use, heat the glaze in the top of a double boiler or in a medium bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring until melted and smooth but not hot.
TO GLAZE THE ECLAIRS: Pour the glaze into a deep bowl that is about 7 inches wide, just slightly larger than an éclair. Hold an éclair parallel to the surface of the glaze and dip it into the glaze to coat the top; pull it out of the glaze, still parallel to it, and turn the éclair upward, letting the excess run off, then rotate slightly to one side to stop the glaze from dripping. Set on a serving platter and repeat with the remaining éclairs.
The éclairs are best eaten as soon as they are completed, but they can be refrigerated for up to 1 hour.
Bon appétit!
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